There are many motives for cruising but, without doubt, the eternal adventure and unexpected unfolding of future plans are high on our list. We never dreamt that our 2-year cruise to the Med. and Caribbean in 1985 would lead to a circumnavigation and when we left again to cruise around North and Central America in 1998 for 11/2 years, had no intention of ending up back in the Med. Of course, there were very good reasons!

 

In 1986 it was being lured to Australia to take part in the Tall Ships Events, which included an unrestricted working visa. Once there we were half the way round the world, so why not continue downwind! In 2000, when Bagheera was on the U.S. East coast, it was my nephew’s wedding in Spain that lured us across the Atlantic again. Then it was all too easy to then leave her there while we returned to Vancouver for winter work. Ever stimulated by the sapphire seas and changing cultures, cuisines, history and sights, it took four subsequent summers to cruise her east and begin to feel we had done the mesmerizing Mediterranean justice. Having recently left for West Africa and Brazil it seems a good time for a brief review. Most of the Med. provides magical cruising and we highly recommend it for chartering as well as in your own boat. The Balearic Islands of Spain will always remain a favourite with the pretty turquoise cala coves and elegant, green shuttered towns. Besides the large islands of Menorca , Mallorca and Ibiza and some smaller islands is the delightful park island of Cabrera (allow a few days in summer to organize a permit.)

 

The many northern bays and islands of Italian Sardinia lie just an overnight passage away with rugged Corsica a boisterous sail north across the Straits of Bonifacio. Pungent aromas of French food greet one even before entering Bonifacio town, one of the Med.’s most dramatic port entries with its massive crenellated castle atop towering cliffs. The Italian west coast gives access to Tuscany, Rome and Bay of Naples but as there are few anchorages is best avoided in July and August when marinas are full (these months are also hot), but the Aeolian Islands north of Sicily make a delightful stop with the volcanic ‘ribbons of fire’ that snake down the mountainous Stromboli a surreal sight. The finger-like islands of the Croatian coast have become the Med.’s latest popular cruising ground and deservedly so with their lush butterfly-filled parks and medieval-walled towns such as Dubrovnik, Split and Korcula still delightfully intact (Remember Croatia is not in the EU and one must clear-out of the EU country before visiting.)

 

To the south of the Adriatic, western Greece’s larger Ionian Islands generally provide peaceful cruising while the rugged islands of the easterly Aegean Sea are more challenging. As Odysseus found here the wind can really blow, with the summer afternoon meltemi wind giving exhilarating sails south and with luck a morning motor north, but the old whitewashed chora towns with their bright blue trim and the tiny fishing harbours filled with colourful craft throughout the Cyclades, Dodecanese and Sporades Island groups have an irresistible charm.

 

Although far more touristy than 80’s on our first visit in Bagheera the southwestern ‘turquoise’ coast of Turkey is many cruisers’ favourite with its intriguing blend of eastern and western cultures with picturesque anchorages lined with Lycian cliff tombs, Roman and Greek amphitheatres and crusader castles to explore. The lively markets offer fresh food from the fertile, capably cultivated valleys and the rich spices for sale indicators of their liberal use and flavourful food. In particular, we enjoy the extroverted Turkish people with their lively sense of humour, one of the reasons we decided to cruise north to Istanbul in the summer of 2003, en route to visiting the Black Sea . After negotiating the narrow, winding Dardanelles and the Sea of Marmara, the skyline of towering minarets is an unforgettable sight, and Istanbul one of the world’s most exotic cities. Negotiating the Bosphorus to the Black Sea was busy with much shipping and the sightseeing the shores lined with elegant marble palaces of the Ottoman Sultans and pencil thin minarets.

 

The Black Sea is not a comfortable cruising ground. The coast has few harbours, which often one cannot visit in consecutive order because of the officialdom. We did, however enjoy visit Bulgaria and the poorer but also friendly Romania , and spent several days sailing the Danube Delta. The people had a special dignity and once the initial barrier has been broken go to endless lengths to help one. Towns such as Bourgas, Varna and Contanta are being restored to their some former glory although still greatly hampered by cumbersome, communist-style rules and regulations. To our surprise the name of our boat was a good icebreaker. Bagheera comes from the black panther from Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book. We are used to it being associated with the Disney movie or a Scout leader, but here everyone immediately said ‘Rudyard Kipling’. There was little in the way of entertainment during the Communist era but English books were available and many put us to shame with their knowledge of the English Classics.

 

It was fascinating hearing about subsequent events in the Ukraine as we had a difficult time here with the officials and found it hard to get to know the people. We had the boat in Odessa , and Sevastopol and Yalta in the Crimea , all beautiful, affluent towns where the people didn’t want to speak Ukrainian, only Russian. Odessa has the only real marina in the Black Sea , just holding 30 boats, and we left the Bagheera there to visit Russia itself-on an impressive new Russian aircraft with excellent food. The ornate buildings and museums in the northern canal city of St Petersburg and the Kremlin and Red Square in Moscow are unbelievably impressive and we couldn’t believe the artwork and efficiency of the underground train system, on which, apparently the London system is to be remodelled!

 

After communication problems in the Black Sea it was easy to be lured into taking part in the East Mediterranean Yacht Rally and we thoroughly enjoyed the 100-boat 5-week event that attracted participants from 18 different nations. From Kemer Marina, close to Antalya in Southern Turkey (highly recommended for an active wintering community), the rally included visits to southern and eastern Turkey, Northern Cyprus, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt, and an inland tour to Jordon. In particularly, we appreciated that all paperwork, permits and moorage was organized, and that friendly officials were waiting at the dock. The fun-loving participants, many dinners with dancing and local entertainment, and the numerous inland tours were an added bonus. In this ‘cradle of civilization’ there is no lack of fascinating history and the rally had visits to twelve UNESCO World heritage sites as well as a memorable group ‘sit’ on the Dead Sea.

One summer we cruised locally in BC with Californian friends who had brought their boat up on Dockwise transportation from Mexico (book at least five months in advance for cheaper rates). Showing others was lovely reminder of our great cruising grounds at home and we could gather information for another rally. This time it was leading a group of Ocean Cruising Club Members, mostly British, around our Canadian Gulf Islands for the last two weeks in September. The organization was considerably helped by our experience of being group leaders in the EMYR and also by a perfect ‘Indian Summer’ with comfortable cruising breezes. Fun was had by all, but the event was far larger than expected. We estimated there would be about 10 boats with possibly 30 people but ended up with 37 boats and 130 to organize and entertain. Word has got out about beautiful B.C.! We were delighted that Tony and Corinne Gooch, and Lin and Larry Pardey, local OCC members, were also able to take part. While cruising we have greatly enjoyed company and support of other members of the Ocean Cruising Club and would urge anyone who qualifies (must have completed over 1000miles direct at sea) to join.

 

We rejoined Bagheera in October in Menorca, the least developed of the three main Balearic Islands of Spain, and from there headed to West Africa for a fascinating, totally contrasting ’off-the-beaten track’ cruising experience (to be recounted later). Earlier in the year two of our sons had joined us on the EMYR Rally in Egypt and on our return to Vancouver for the summer our eldest son Duncan became Bagheera’s Captain, his mission to bring her back across the Med. He cruised 2,500 n.miles with a multitude of friends, including brother Colin, and did an outstanding job. Not only did the boat look immaculate on our return, but besides routine maintenance he had also replaced the 20-year old gearbox and all the through-hulls. We feel blessed that all three boys are still so keen on the boat that took us all around the world.

 

MEDITERRANEAN INFO

Physical features

•  Bordered by 21 countries and 2 mini states

•  Size, approx 2000 x 100 miles Lat. 33-44 N, 5-35W

•  10 component seas, most popular - Aegean, Adriatic , Ionian, Ligurian and Tyrrhenian

•  Thousands of islands, inlets and harbours

•  Warm sapphire seas in summer

Other Attractions

•  Dockside cafes, fabulous food and local wines, vary from East to West

•  Ancient history and archeological sites galore

•  Diverse cultures, customs and religions

Negatives

•  Hot and crowded in July and August. Same seasons as at home.

 

WEATHER

Unique Mediterranean Climate as it is enclosed by the high mountain ranges of Continental Europe , the Sahara Desert and the Atlantic Ocean .

•  Long Cruising season (April through October), longer in the south. July and August are hot and busy.

•  Winds – Nearly all winds are pressure driven. Long periods of calms in summer with stable Azores , N. African and S. Russian Highs. Frequent local thermal winds. Also watch for the pressure driven northerly Meltemi in the Aegean (becomes NW in S. Turkey ), which commonly gains in strength from late morning to sunset. If travelling north its best to motor early in the day. Other strong winds (usually winter) include the Tramontane , Mistral and Bora. Also watch for gusty katabatic winds where there is high topography.

•  Rare to have ideal sailing winds – calms or strong winds are the norm. A good engine is important.

•  Minimal summer rainfall, thunderstorms in the Fall.•  Good weather forecasting, often in English on VHF and SSB. Most countries have Navtex (518kHz, approx range 200nm), RTTY (most cruisers use Hamburg ) and weather fax. Many marinas post weather and many local weather internet sites.

•  Cruisers’ Net (English speaking) on 8122 kHz 05:30 Z. gives weather for the entire Med. including check-in etc.

 

 NAVIGATION/PILOTING

•  Charting – mostly excellent, occasional discrepancies with GPS position.

•  Almost no tides, little current (exceptions eg Straits of Messina, Dardenelles, between Evia Island and the Greek mainland.

•  Cruising guides/travel books - Many available, most are good. We prefer those by Rod Heikel, Imray, where available (eg Greece , Turkey , Italy ). His Mediterranean Cruising Handbook and particularly his Mediterranean Almanac (a must for weather frequencies and areas) are essential. Well worth getting travel books, eg Lonely Planet Guides , to help plan route with sightseeing.

CRUISING INFO

EU Regulations – A non-VAT paid boat is allowed to stay for 18 months in the EU, with extensions given if kept in one location ín bond’. Depending on its age it may also be grand fathered in.

Depending on nationality and country people may be restricted in length of stay under the Schengen Treaty.

There is essentially ‘open’ cruising between EU countries but cruisers may be asked for ships papers and passports at marinas.More bureaucracy in Italy (eg a constituto for non-EU vessels) and Greece . Talk to other cruisers and on the Net but be prepared for officials different knowledge, interpretation and implementation of the rules.

Remember to clear out of the EU when leaving for a non-EU country.

Cruising fees - charges in some countries, Croatia is particularly high (about $350 for a 40' yacht per year). When the Euro overtook the US dollar all charges went to the Euro in non-EU countries, so increased. Check entry Visa into Greece carefully. Periodically, although illegal in the EU, a limit of a 6-month visa is issued to non-EU boats with fees charged per month. Charges at the quay are also higher than for locals, and for some services (eg Canadians going through the opening bridge between Evia Island and the Greek mainland.)

                                  

 

Budget/cash - Easy travel throughout the EU with the Euro, but its increase in value can make Europe expensive compared to Canada/US, although countries vary. Turkey , the Middle East and N. Africa tend to be cheaper. Keeping away from the tourist track and going to the local markets pays.

Accessing cash - have a variety of cards on both the Plus and Cirrus systems. (eg Visa and Mastercard). Use a 4-digit pin and know it in numbers as often no letters are displayed. It is unwise to complete internet banking at an internet café as there are widely reported scams of hacking with accounts emptied.

Fuel – Propane/butane - technically illegal for North American bottles to be filled in the EU, although some places will do it. (Butane can go in propane tanks but not visa versa).  Otherwise use the local Camping gas, buy the first bottle then exchange for a full one. Can be expensive, particularly in Italy .

Insurance - many countries require coverage. (Lloyds issued us with certificates in Greek, Italian and Spanish.)

 

Certificate of competence can be required in many countries. (Canadian Boaters/US coastguard certificate seems to be acceptable)

Mooring – Usually boats under 12m/39' pay much less at a dock/marina throughout the Med with variations throughout the season. Generally Med. Moor by anchoring or picking up a line and going stern-to the dock. Need a plank or Passerelle to get ashore and at least 6 fenders.

Anchoring – often in seagrass and one needs a penetrating anchor. We use a CQR, Delta and Spade also good. Locals use 4 prong grapnel in weedy rock.

Cockpit canvas is essential for the sun - bimini, side curtains on the lifelines, opening dodger and plenty of fans below.

Power – 220 volts, buy a duel voltage charger

Communications

Phone cards make long distance calls inexpensive, particularly in the EU. Ask for international cards, more #s to dial but much better rates.

Pocketmail email device using the phone system is generally economical, (not in Turkey where phone rates are higher) especially as local access numbers continue to increase. Note: If picking up Pocketmail messages on the internet attachments can be sent and received.

Generally good reception for Winlink and Sailmail.

Most countries are now on Broadband internet connections but be warned emails often do not go through from internet cafes. Wireless internet access in marinas is common. Antenna amplifiers are useful.  Internet phoning by Skype is popular.

Mobile (cell) phones. Europe is on the GSM system (need a dual band phone or Tri-band phone to also use in North America ). Most cruisers change their SIM cards in every country for cheaper calls (also means you change your #). Some plans have internet access included or the facility for GPRS (eg Turkey ). Bluetooth makes it handy to connect the phone to the computer. Beware when loading phone software that you do not get a COM port 1 problem with the GPS

Note: No charge for receiving mobile calls in Europe but a heavy charge when dialing. Text messaging is popular as the rates are cheaper. Remember to buy a 12-volt recharger.

 

 Leaving the boat – There are a wide variety of marina and haul-out facilities throughout the Med. including in North Africa . Rates vary and are negotiable. Again talk to other cruisers. Active wintering communities, such as in Kemer in Turkey , are becoming increasingly popular.